Ideas on a postcard...

[pigeondave]

Drill a line of small holes to get the screw driver in?
If it doesnt unscrew, keep drilling holes?

Or get a new tank made with a built in swirl pot and do have the 2nd pump
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pigeondave/9277790089/

[andyf]

Take a look at the classic car fuel injection kit as it doesn't need a return to the tank.

[Fury1630]

That's nothing to do with a midget, it's the tank that Fisher supplied for the Fury. The tank is roto-moulded in one piece with the brass ferrules in place so what you're looking at is NOT a bung, it's the tank wall. To use the brass in / outlet just drill a hole through the plastic.

I swapped mine for an aluminium tank as the lowest brass ferrule always leaked.

One more thing, the return from the top of the swirl pot to the tank is to return air bubbles, it will return fuel as well, but it's there to get air out of the system if some adventurous cornering uncovers the outlet pipe & a lump of air goes down the hose.

[Tony C]

That's nothing to do with a midget, it's the tank that Fisher supplied for the Fury. The tank is roto-moulded in one piece with the brass ferrules in place so what you're looking at is NOT a bung, it's the tank wall. To use the brass in / outlet just drill a hole through the plastic.

I swapped mine for an aluminium tank as the lowest brass ferrule always leaked.

One more thing, the return from the top of the swirl pot to the tank is to return air bubbles, it will return fuel as well, but it's there to get air out of the system if some adventurous cornering uncovers the outlet pipe & a lump of air goes down the hose.

Definitely not a Midget tank, they were made in steel so they could rust along with the rest of the car

[Tony B]

The return from the rail is piped into the swirl pot, but then there's an overflow that goes back into the tank.

that's exactly how mine is plumbed, the lift pump should really be as close to the tank (and below it) as possible, and the HP pump should really be as close to the swirl pot (and below it) as possible - if I was designing mine again I would ensure the bottom of the tank has the "swirl area", eliminating the need for a separate one and the lift pump - this is how Robs car is plumbed, saves finding places for all those components

at tickover I have lots of bubbles and lots of fuel returning to my tank, not sure how much fuel gets returned at full chat mode but im guessing the engine doesn't use fuel as fast as its being pumped round so still quite a lot, and blocking of the return would surely create fuel overheating issues.

cant you ignore that return in the tank and put in a new one somehow?

return.jpg (12.75 KiB) Viewed 2263 times

[b33fy]

I would save my pennies and get a tank fit for the job. Speak to Steve at fury re your options.

[Fury1630]

I should still have the drawings for the one I drew up for my Fury if you want to get one made.

[Hammy]

A lot of the Mini boys, including the turbo ones are running the return to the filler neck. In fact the Metro Turbo did this from the factory...

Key is not to do it too high in the neck so you dont get a whirlpool going back in to the tank

[ChrisS]

I did the filler neck trick when converting the Westy from carbs to EFI. Carefully drilled a hole in the side of the alloy neck, bolted in a suitable fitting and added a second fuel line. I kept the original LP pump as the lift pump and used a Golf GTI swirl pot/pump/filter unit up in the engine bay. Has been working perfectly for about 12 years now. I put a restrictor in the return line to reduce the amount of ticking from the lift pump. 3mm hole IIRC.