Fury Winter Upgrades

[graham b]

[Fury1630]

Very nearly finished the winter upgrades now, the latest purchase for the Fury arrived today & was immediately taken to the garage for some fettling. It’s a gear shift from a 1970’s Shimano bike gear set.

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On the Fury it will serve as the remote boot release (how posh am I?). It’s already had the flash lines cleaned off & been fitted with a titanium pivot bolt, two PTFE washers, two Titanium washers & an alloy bracket, hopefully I’ll get chance to fit it tomorrow.

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[graham b]

Way tooooo posh

[Fury1630]

The lever's in & working the latch, & I've started on the beam that will latch the boot lid in place, I can latch the beam to the car, just got to attach the beam to the boot lid.

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That's the back of the set & the headrest, looking down / outboard / aft

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& there's the beam in place with the latch - almost done now.

[Fury1630]

Right, definitely positively the last upgrade for this "down" season.

As reported elsewhere, the oil light comes on under hard acceleration, it used to only happen after the car had been idling "nose up" on a hill, but seems to be getting more frequent - or maybe I'm just looking for it more often. Anyway, the sump is a cast one from bought from Westfield, it is baffled, but the baffle consists of a horizontal deck, with two down plates, which reach neither to the sides, nor to the bottom. They don't stop the oil moving the wrong way, they just inconvenience it a little.

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Initially I thought I'd just make them a better fit, then thought about replacing it completely. I bought a couple of "oil surge control valves" - stupidly expensive rubber flaps - & made a baffle plate with them in. It was riveted to angle brackets with sealed pop rivets, so the ball cant escape into the sump, then drilled through the brackets from the outside (Eeek!). I made gaskets for all three bracket positions, but copper washers both sides of the joint AND wet assembled the M4 bolts, so hopefully they won't leak.

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It's cranked like that to avoid the drain plug which is naturally in just the wrong place.

The new deck is essentially the same as the old one, but has a "gutter" bent into it to encourage the oil to run forwards to where the pick-up pipe is & the dipstick hole is flanged down, so the dipstick should always find it's way through, which it didn't before

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Then I bolted the sump back up with titanium bolts (as you do).
Will it work? I've no idea, but I plan to find out tomorrow.

[Hammy]

Tony mate, its not winter anymore Loving your work though!

[Fury1630]

So, took the car to the hill up to Newlands Corner (Trodds lane?) sat idling long enough for the oil to find it's own level, then floored it in 1st, 2nd & 3rd.

IT WORKS!

Not so much as a flicker from the oil light. No leaks when I got home either, apart from a possible weep from the pipe that supplies the oil pressure sender - new hose on order

I shan't have to be so careful with the throttle on the next blatt

Celebratory madeira cake & custard for me!

[DJ.]

Glad it works well

[andyf]

It's good when a plan comes together