Postby greenwoo » Fri Jan 12, 2018 2:33 pm
first thing i'd do Dicky is to take it to a rolling road (a decent one and one that you can then repeatedly use) and see what its got, in terms of peak power, where the band is and what the torque is- and how that's spread.
Without a baseline whatever you do will be subjective...you might find that right now its way off where it should be....i think that the consensus is that a decent standard 2.0 is likely to give circa 170/175 tops on an accurate r/road. If it's a mile away from that then your answer might be as simple as the fact that the current engine is knackered, or that the rev limit is too low or....
None of the upgrades are going to be cheap unless you're extremely lucky in picking up bits n bobs.
new cams are £500 & a remap without fitting them......
exhaust makes a big difference but a new system (custom) will set you back £12-1500.
headwork - keeping standard valves if you get it done by a 'pro' at the cheap end will be £5-600 + remap.
As for swapping heads, the st170 is (i believe) a fable and a sod to tune compared to a silvertop/blacktop. They never had 170 which one would have assumed they would when they were in the donor, and whilst freeing up the exhaust etc will give more power in a kit, i think that a full st170 with just the cam delete or a progression built into the map will only be 170/180...you'd need cams in that to get it to 200.
With luck and a following wind and if you do the undoing/putting back, you could do cams & head for about 1000/1200 a remap would prob be £250 cheap end, and say an initial power run before at 100. Keeping the rev limit to 7000 or so i think ( i stand to be corrected) is ok without ARP bolts(?) and that should give you around 200.
Cheaper solution to make it feel 'peppy' would be to stick on a proper lightweight flywheel/clutch and pulley, and make sure that it's got a 3.92 diff.
